Cold Shoulder V-Neck with Criss-Cross Straps

Behold! Another GGV-neck hack. Granted it’s not much of a departure from my GGV-neck cold shoulder hack, but it’s something.

About the Fabric

1 yard NAVY LIGHTWEIGHT COTTON SPANDEX JERSEY from Surge Fabrics

  • Fabric Content: 95% cotton/5% spandex
  • Fabric Width: 58-60″
  • Fabric Weight: 135gsm
  • Approx Stretch: 75% horizontal/50% vertical

Our lightweight cotton spandex jersey is soft and breathable. It has four way stretch with great recovery. This is a lighter weight cotton spandex jersey that works especially well for creating garments that don’t look or feel boxy and heavy. Despite the lower weight, it is still quite opaque even in the lighter colors. Use this fabric to create tops, dresses and so much more!

I actually don’t love this fabric. It’s very reminiscent of cotton lycra; there seems to be very little jersey action going on. I was expecting it to be more like their rayon spandex jersey for some reason—which I love and wish I would’ve gotten a yard of that in navy blue (which I might, and then play with more strap ideas. I have a lot on my Pinterest board that I want to try.) It has the drape I was envisioning and a much smoother hand.

This stuff feels and looks cheap to me and it’s a magnet for flotsam. It’s clingy and the edges roll which makes it annoying to work with. It’s all the crap qualities of cotton lycra that I hate, which isn’t much of a surprise; cotton lycra is cotton spandex. I was duped by the “jersey” in this fabric description. Live and learn! Rayon is better!

About This Make

All the usual modified GGVneck goodness:

  • size 4 graded to 10 at waist
  • modified 40K Sway sleeve (*I could be wrong about this. I’m too lazy to verify it right now.)
  • +1″ to bodice
  • 8.5″ x 1.5″ strap pattern for a final 8.5″ x 0.5″ strap

This was an easy variation on my original. All I did was stand in front of a mirror while wearing my original and measured how long I would need the cross straps to be (8.5″). I decided I wanted them a little more narrow than my original. Then off I went constructing the shirt as usual.

When it was time to attach the straps, I went back to the mirror to see where I wanted them anchored. (3″ from the shoulder seam, and 2.5″ from the sleeve seam.)

When I finished, I decided to tack them at the cross point with a small button to keep them in place.

Notes for Next Time

  • Maybe the straps are too short? Or the fabric is too stiff. They weren’t laying how I imagined they would—hence the button. Try a drapier fabric if I do this strap variation again. Chances are, I will just try another strap idea.
  • Maybe bring in the back armscye line, too, so it doesn’t cut in so much toward the back.

 

Project Settings

Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine Serger
  • straps
  • narrow hems
  • sleeve attach
  • sleeve and shirt hems
  • buttons
  • shoulder seams
  • side seams
  • sleeve seams

Sewing Machine Settings

Presser Foot Stitch# Stitch Width Stitch Length Needle Top Thread Tension Application
standard zig-zag (A) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 seams
overedge (C) 2 0 3 blue tip 4 narrow hems
overedge (C) 6 5.5 3.5 blue tip 4 edge finish
applique (F) 6 4 0.5 blue tip 4 sleeve tack (optional)
applique (F) 1 3.5 3.5 blue tip 4 strap attach

Serger Settings

Stitch Name 4-thread overlock
Needles R, L
Finger B
Threads 4
Tension Left Needle 4
Tension Right Needle 4
Tension Upper Looper 4
Tension Lower Looper 4
Cut Width 6
Stitch Length 2.5
Differential 1.0
Application seams

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Posted in Project Recaps, Sewing, The Things I've Made • June 21, 2023 | No Comments»

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