Troubleshooting

It’s bound to happen, that moment you run into some sort of issue and you just don’t know what you’re doing wrong (if you’re doing anything wrong at all!) I expect this list to grow as I continue to sew.

Skipped Stitches
Things to check if you’re encountering skipped stitches:

  • The needle is incorrectly inserted, bent, or blunt.
  • The needle is not suitable for the work being sewn. Knits should use ball-point (sometimes called stretch) needles, and wovens should use sharp needles.
  • The thread is not suitable for the work being sewn. All-purpose polyester thread is your safest bet. I’ve had zero issues with using that type of thread. I prefer Gutermann, but Coats & Clark is good, too.
  • The needle thread is not threaded properly.
  • A poor quality needle is used.
  • Thread tension is too high.
Fusible Interfacing Woes

When it just won’t fuse:

  • You didn’t press long enough. Try again and press longer.
  • You didn’t press hard enough. Try again and press harder.
  • Your iron isn’t hot enough. Careful; check what temperature your fabric can handle before exposing it to the fires of hell.
  • Your fabric has some type of finish that isn’t playing well with the interfacing glue. Try washing your fabric if you can, or consider using sew-in interfacing.

When it fuses but it’s all bubbly/wrinkly:

  • Iron all the wrinkles out of your fabric before fusing.
  • Did you use parchment paper or some kind of special pressing sheet? Heat tends to make parchment paper wrinkle, and that will make your fabric wrinkle too. Try using muslin to line under and over your fabric/interfacing.
  • Your iron is too hot.
Wavy Seams
  • If the fabric can handle it, give the seam a good steamy press with your iron. This is often effective on knits that can get stretched out while sewing. I’ve also had a nice press on low heat with no steam work effectively on woven fabric (rayon batiste).
  • Try using some tear- or wash-away stabilizer, tissue paper, or Wash-Away Wonder Tape directly along the seam line before sewing.
  • If your machine is able to, lower the pressure of your presser foot.
Shredded Needle Thread
  • Rethread your machine.
  • Your needle is old. Try a new needle.
  • You’re using the wrong thread for the application, or your thread is old or lousy quality. Try different thread.
  • Try a different presser foot. Tiny gouges in your presser foot can absolutely shred your thread.
  • Your needle plate has gotten beat up. If it is, replace your needle plate.
  • Your needle is the wrong size. Try a bigger needle.
  • Your top thread tension may need to be adjusted.