I combined my favorite features of my two M7950 dresses and created this.
About the Fabric
Main: 3 yards Plum, Sage, and Brown Vine Line Art on Ivory Designer Linen from Cali Fabrics
- FABRIC CONTENT: 100% Linen
- FABRIC WIDTH: 60″
- WEIGHT: Light Midweight
- STRETCH: None
It’s probably safe to say Cali Fabrics is my favorite shop. And when they send me a 15% off coupon, well…it’s like shooting fish in a barrel. Hi. I’m the fish.
This linen is weightier than I expected for linen, and yet manages to be just a little bit sheer because of the light color. And as all linen does, it wrinkles very easily. But it’s so pretty!
Lining: leftover quilting cotton from Joann
Pockets: Dusty Pink. Silk Crepe de Chine Woven Fabric (Boho Fabrics)
- Weight: 3 oz
- Horizontal Stretch: 0%
- Vertical Stretch: 0%
- Contents: 100% Silk
About This Make
- size 12 graded to 14 at waist and below
- shortened shoulder straps by 1.25″
- added semi-circle bra pad inserts 0.5″ lower than my Batik version
- lengthened skirt by 8″
- added 6 eyelets and a drawstring for shaping and wearability
I was going to do the tie straps but totally forgot.
I also totally forgot that I topstitched the bodice last time, so this time around I was understitching and wondering why the ham I couldn’t remember doing it before. Sometimes, my ham is dumb.
Had to cut some panels out of Bemberg lining for an extra layer over the bra cups since they were too visible through the linen for my taste. I toyed with the idea of lining the skirt with some Bemberg too, but I didn’t. I just might add that in later.
It may have taken me the better part of a movie to turn my drawstring right side out. My tube turner set just can’t handle a woven drawstring at this size.
Them Buttons
I don’t exactly love sewing shank buttons, but errmawerd lookit them. They are so nice and create just the right finishing touch on this dress. So I had to do it. My tip for sewing shank buttons: put something on TV to watch. Takes it from holy crud how many more of these do I have to do? to a relaxing, almost mindless task.
And while I’m sharing tips…
Tips for Sewing Buttonholes
I have a one-step buttonhole on my machine. (Well, I actually have several buttonholes, but that’s beside the point.) And far too often, I’ve accidently bumped the little pull-down lever mid-hole, causing my machine to think it was time to switch to the next step. I’ve bumped it with my hand, I’ve had a wad of fabric get in the way before, I’ve had a hump under the foot cause issues… It’s such a sensitive lever.
So my tip to end all tips for buttonholes: make sure there’s nothing in the way. No obstructions. Nice, flat, clear fabric. And keep your hands away from that lever.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 1 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | seams |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 5 | 90/14 | 4 | baste |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 0 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | bra pad tack |
| 1/4" | 1 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | drawstring |
| adjustable edge (SE#3) | 1 | 0 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | understitch |
| adjustable edge (SE#8) | 0 | 0 | 3.5 | 90/14 | 4 | hem |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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