Add a Cowl Neck to the George and Ginger Teen Spirit Top

I’ve layered the Teen Spirit Top with my Be Dreamy dresses, self-drafted pinafore pants, and Riot Skirts, and I love the pop-over effect it creates. The extra layer of warmth is also great in cooler weather. But one thing I didn’t love was the rather large neckline, so I thought it’d be nice to create a version with a cowl neck. And here we are.

About the Fabric

Snow fluff brushed thermal knit from Boho Fabrics

  • Contents: Polyester/Rayon/Spandex
  • Weight: 10 oz
  • Width of Fabric: 58″
  • Horizontal Stretch % 100%
  • Vertical Stretch % 100.00%

Waffle knits aren’t really my favorite; the waffle texture looks cheap to my eye. I’d say that it makes it look like a long-john-esque thermal knit, but this fabric IS a thermal knit, so I can’t really pick on that without looking like an idiot. What I do love about this fabric is the brushed back and the heavier weight. Very cozy!

About the Pattern

George and Ginger Teen Spirit Top

  • size XS
  • crop length
  • high-low hem
  • Modifications to original pattern:
    • +2″ to sleeves
    • raised neckline 2″ at the shoulder seams, 2″ at the front, and 1″ at the back
    • self-drafted cowl
      • 17.5″ at neckline, 26″ at cowl opening, 11.25″ long

My cowl didn’t go according to plan at first.

I overcompensated for the original wide neckline and raised the front by 3″, didn’t taper the cowl, and didn’t take into account that 11″ folded in half is only 6.5″. So it turned into a turtleneck. Which wasn’t the worst, but it wasn’t what I wanted and I didn’t like it enough to keep it. So I unpicked it, redrafted the cowl correctly, and ended up with this.

It’s still not quite what I envisioned—I saw a deeper, drapier cowl in my head—but I don’t want to re-do it again. I’m also a little intrigued by the more structured result I have here and the potential to fold it in a way that stands up versus hanging down.

Notes for Next Time

  • I would like to make another one out of a cozy sweater knit that isn’t a waffle texture.
  • I should also choose a darker color so I can layer it with more things without said things showing through. And probably a neutral color so it coordinates with a wider variety of things.
  • Widen the neckline a bit and make the cowl more dramatic (longer, wider opening.)

A note about the photos: I snagged an RF 24-240mm f/4-6.3 lens that I am loving. Not the most outrageous lens I crave (hello RF 70-200 f/2.8), nor is it cheap, but hubby covered a little over half for Christmas and I made up the difference. Worth it! That focal range means lots of versatility in so many situations. The aperture is also acceptable. It’s no 1.2 like my nifty 50mm, but those wide apertures paired with telephoto capability is where you start dropping the big bucks. Like major bucks. I only recently ventured into this photography thing and it’s definitely still in the hobby stage for me, so there’s no justifying the price tag on a lens like that. All that to say, this is a lovely lens!

Project Settings

Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine Serger
  • cowl construction
  • sleeve hems
  • everything else

Sewing Machine Settings

Presser Foot Stitch# Stitch Width Stitch Length Needle Top Thread Tension Application
standard zig-zag (A) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 seams

Serger Settings

Stitch Name super stretch
Needles R, L
Finger B
Threads 3
Tension Left Needle 2
Tension Right Needle 2
Tension Upper Looper
Tension Lower Looper 0.5
Cut Width 6
Stitch Length 3
Differential 1.0
Application seams

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Posted in Project Recaps, Sewing, The Things I've Made • January 16, 2023 | No Comments»

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