A Stripey Twist It Up Top with Buttons

This fabric went through a ringer of ideas in my head: another v-neck, possibly with a cowl…can you make a cowl out of a v-neck shape? Dolman sleeve, definitely want the dolman…but maybe not as dolman-y as my last dolman. Really want a nice cowl neck. But still warm. With something extra…maybe gathered at a side seam? Or with little straps and a button to gather at the side seams? Or maybe some pleats with buttons…

At any rate, I think I landed in a happy place.

About the Fabric

Winter Mist Stripes Brushed Sweater Knit from Boho Fabrics

  • Content: rayon/Spandex
  • Weight: 9 oz
  • H stretch: 75%
  • V stretch: 50%

This sweater knit is pretty lightweight and drapey. One side is brushed so I used that as the back of the fabric because I want all the brushed things against my skin thankyaverramuch. Very easy to sew, other than the selvages distorting the stripes. I just cut the selvages off to get it to lay evenly, though. Simple fix.

About This Make

Pattern: Twist it Up Top by Ellie and Mac

  • Size: XS
  • Dolman sleeves with cuffs
    • +1″ to sleeves
  • Cowl neck
    • raised neckline by 1″ at front and shoulder seams
    • redrew base of cowl neck to compensate for this adjustment

I raised the neckline because I wanted the cowl to lay closer to my neck. I’ve made this top a few times prior, and the one most similar to this fabric ended up with a larger neckline than I preferred. And so I adjusted the neckline to shrink it, much like the way I adjusted the GGVneck to narrow the neckline. I like how it turned out.

I also wrestled the front twist into submission. I don’t love the execution of the twist on this pattern: it feels like something is missing but I’m not sure what. When I follow the instructions, it never lays nicely and slides out of shape all the live-long day. So this time, I sewed an extra seam to anchor it and keep it from sliding around. I’m happy with that, but I’d like to explore different ways of achieving this twist detail. This one seems underwhelming.

For that something extra, I landed on three decorative buttons attached to the left side of the cowl. They serve no function, but I love the visual interest it adds. The buttons are also pretty nice themselves; dug them out of a stash my hubby had in a box of his mom’s things. They work really well with this fabric.

I’m wearing the shirt as I type this and it is unbelievably comfortable. I think it will easily climb toward the top of my go-to list.

A hearty thank you to the blown out fresh snow background for my photos. I love the ambient light from fresh snow.

Project Settings

Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine Serger
  • cuff construction
  • cowl construction
  • hem
  • gathers
  • buttons
  • everything else

Sewing Machine Settings

Presser Foot Stitch# Stitch Width Stitch Length Needle Top Thread Tension Application
standard zig-zag (A) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 seams
standard zig-zag (A) 1 3.5 3.5 blue tip 4 hem
standard zig-zag (A) 0 3.5 5 blue tip 4 gathers
button foot (T) 6 ~4.5 drop feed blue tip 4 buttons

Serger Settings

Stitch Name superstretch
Needles R, L
Finger B
Threads 3
Tension Left Needle 3
Tension Right Needle 2.5
Tension Upper Looper
Tension Lower Looper 0.5
Cut Width 6
Stitch Length 3.5
Differential 1.0
Application seams

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Posted in Project Recaps, Sewing • December 29, 2022 | No Comments»

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