Stellar Romper with Raised Neckline and Other Mods

Behold version 2!

About the Fabric

MAIN: I do not remember where the stripey fabric came from or even what it is, but my best guess is nylon spandex. It has a very smooth hand, very stretchy. It was a pain in the royal face to work with, though. The edges rolled slightly, but that wasn’t the problem. It just did not want to stay lined up when I was lining up raw edges; it was the weirdest thing. The last seam where I sew the skirt/shorts to the bodice was a nightmare. I skipped basting at first, but that was a huge mistake, so after about 2 inches of serging, I stopped and basted the two layers of the bodice band together, and the skirt/shorts together.

The fabric feels great though! Very, very smooth, stretchy, cool on a hot summer day (which is what makes me think it’s nylon spandex.) Was it from Made of Love Fabrics, or Surge? I’d really have to dig in my email to find out.

Found it!

Black, White, and Red Glossy Abstract Nylon/Lycra from Cali Fabrics

  • FABRIC CONTENT: Nylon/Spandex
  • FABRIC WIDTH: 60″
  • WEIGHT: Midweight
  • STRETCH: 4-way 125%

LINING: pebble gray swim (nylon spandex) from Boho Fabrics.

  • Contents: Nylon/Spandex Blend
  • Horizontal Stretch: 100%
  • Vertical Stretch: 130%
  • Weight: 9.5 oz

I only had 1 yard of the stripey fabric, so I used this gray nylon spandex for the shorts and lining. Great choice! That ample vertical stretch keeps the shorts so much more comfortable because it’s not pulling the rest of the garment down and riding up.

About This Make

  • size 8, A cup
  • lengthened torso by 1″ (modified shorts front, shorts back)
  • raised neckline by 1.5″
  • lengthened legs by 1″ (modified shorts front, shorts back, gusset, pockets, pocket backing)
  • widened legs by a total of 2″ (modified shorts front, shorts back)

What I Did Differently

  • Sewed a much wider hem on the shorts than I had on version one. Much more comfortable.
  • Only cut one 2″ strip of fabric for the bands. I was a few inches short, so for future reference, I need one of those strips plus another 14″.
  • Understitched the center front neckline in an attempt to keep the lining from rolling outward. It kind of works.
  • Tacked my bra cups in place at the very end (instructions have you do it as step one but I like to put the garment on and situate them where they should be instead of guessing at the very beginning.)

Notes for Next Time

  • Try understitching the whole neckline.
  • Add in-seam pockets to the skirt.

 

Project Settings

Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine Serger
  • strap construction
  • bodice construction
  • bodice/band attach
  • pockets
  • shorts construction
  • skirt construction
  • skirt/bodice attach

Sewing Machine Settings

Presser Foot Stitch# Stitch Width Stitch Length Needle Top Thread Tension Application
standard zig-zag (A) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 seams
overedge (C) 6 6 3 blue tip 4 edge finish
adjustable edge (SE#5) 5 1.0 4 blue tip 4 straps
standard zig-zag (A) 6 1.5 3 blue tip 4 baste

Serger Settings

Stitch Name 4-thread overlock
Needles R, L
Finger B
Threads 4
Tension Left Needle 4
Tension Right Needle 4
Tension Upper Looper 4
Tension Lower Looper 4
Cut Width 6
Stitch Length 2.5
Differential 1.0
Application seams

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Posted in Project Recaps, Sewing • August 19, 2023 | No Comments»

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