Bianca: A Favorite Knit Cropped Jacket

The Bianca Bolero was one of the very first garment patterns I ever sewed up and was one of the first moments I felt like I could legit make my own clothes. It’s still one of my favorites, and I’m loving it even more in plaid.

About the Fabric

Red and Black Mini Houndstooth Plaid Ponte from Made of Love Fabrics

  • Sometimes I forget to save the fabric deets
  • and Made of Love deletes their listings when they’re sold out
  • so I don’t know the specifics about this fabric

Ponte is such a wonderful fabric. It’s so easy to work with and it gives beautiful results. I’ve learned not all ponte is equal, though. Some is smooth to the touch and some has a slightly more rough, “cheaper” feel to it. This red plaid is everything I love about ponte; smooth with a good balance between structure and drape. And it’s plaid! Not just any plaid, either, but a fun, distressed-looking houndstooth.

About This Make and What I Changed

  • Size: 04, regular height
  • +2″ to sleeves
  • Drafted 3″ cuffs for the sleeves instead of hemming
  • Topstitched the collar seam allowance. I like the look this creates so I do it on all my Biancas; it’s a little reminiscent of piping.
  • As with my previous Biancas, I did not stabilize the shoulder seam. I topstitched the seam allowance to add a little reinforcement. This fabric is structured enough to not really need stabilizing.

Sigh. I just love looking at that plaid print. It also screams Christmas!, which is timely since Christmas is just over a month away.

Notes for Next Time

I’m wondering about a swayback adjustment on this. I want it to hug the center of my back better, but I’m not sure if that’s the adjustment I would need or not. I have yet to attempt that adjustment on anything yet, so maybe I start with a pattern that’s more straightforward, just to teach myself that technique.

Project Settings

Presser Foot
Stitch#
Width
Length
Needle
Top Thread Tension
Application
standard zig-zag (A)
5
1.0
4
blue tip
4
seams
overedge (C)
6
5.5
3.5
blue tip
4
edge finish
1/4″
1
3.5
3.5
blue tip
4
edge stitch
1/4″
1
4.5
3.5
blue tip
4
topstitch

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Posted in Project Recaps, Sewing, The Things I've Made • November 14, 2021 | No Comments»

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