Pros & Cons of Sewing with Cotton Lycra (Cotton Spandex)

Sewing with cotton spandex (also known as cotton lycra) comes with its own set of pros and cons. I decided to give this type of fabric a try on my second Skylar hoodie. I’ve seen a few other people use it in these hoodie patterns on the Sinclair Facebook group, and So Sew English had a bunch of unique prints in cotton spandex. Here’s what I discovered while sewing with cotton spandex:

Characteristics of Cotton Spandex

• has a stiffer hand, so it leans more towards the structure side of the spectrum than the drape side
• is a blend of synthetic and cotton fibers; be careful with heat as it can break down the synthetic fibers over time. Wash cold is recommended. I did use my iron for pressing, set no higher than wool setting.

Pros

• great stretch and recovery
• available in a wide variety of unique prints
• durable

Cons

• edges roll something fierce, making it annoying to cut and match raw edges
• clings to itself and other cotton lycra, making it annoying to manipulate while sewing/pinning/et. al.
• spandex is not recyclable into new fiber

So I’ve Concluded…

As I worked through this project, I developed a mild hatred for cotton spandex. I don’t like how it behaves and I don’t particularly like the fabric hand. It feels cheap to me and the finished product looks frumpy. I much prefer a double-knit jersey or ponte if I’m going for a structured knit. Cotton spandex might feel better for warmer weather compared to double-knit jersey and ponte; it’s comparatively lighter, and it is comfortable.

I highly doubt I will use it in another project like the Skylar, but I’m not going to completely write it off. I at least plan to try it with the George & Ginger Riot Skirt. Maybe something more fitted that takes advantage of the elastic properties of spandex will turn out more to my liking.

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