Leveled-Up Leggings with Side Pockets and Color Blocking

Leggings with regular and low rise waist, short length, bike length, capri length, full length, plus contoured high waistband, color-blocked side panels, side panel patch pockets, waistband pocket, and gusset. (Oh, and apparently maternity add-on.) How can all this be totally free? I have no idea, but it is, so you have nothing to lose by sewing up a pair (or a million) of Peg Legs + add-ons. (And now they’ve added another free add-on with more color-blocking and pocket options.) I’ve already gushed about this pattern in a previous Peg Legs post, but this time I leveled up my leggings using the side panel patch pockets and color blocking.

About the Fabric

This jersey knit jegging material consisting of cotton/polyester/spandex hails from The Fabric Snob (and took eons to ship, btw.) It has roughly 25%-30% horizontal and vertical stretch. The face is a deep blue and the back is that heathered denim texture which I used as the color blocks on my side panels. It attracts mad flotsam unfortunately: every stray dog hair (of which I have plenty since my dog literally lives in my lap) and every bit of fuzz, and it does not brush off easily. I feel like a lint roller should have come attached to this fabric.

The edges roll pretty badly–even along the selvages. I have to say it’s not my favorite fabric, even though I want to love it so much. I do love the color and the finished product and it is a comfortable fabric to wear. I got a few yards in black as well. But there’s too much else going against it for me to want more than what I already have. Thus, the search for ideal jegging fabric continues.

About the Pattern / Add-Ons

Instructions need work. I also don’t know why the notches are bigger than my eyeballs. The walk-through could’ve mentioned the importance of these monstrous notches in more steps; some steps didn’t mention them at all.

The instructions could also stand to list out the pattern pieces needed per option.  Plus, a chart detailing the finished sizes of the garment would be super helpful in determining how to size up for fabrics that have a different stretch percentage than recommended.

I said it in my previous post: I’m not a fan of the design of Patterns for Pirates PDF’s. To be fair, I’m incredibly particular when it comes to matters of layout and design. They could be so much better.

The Things I Did

  • Topstitching. Oh my word, it was so worth the extra time it took to constantly switch to my double needle and 2 spools in order to topstitch with this contrasting thread. First, it anchors the seam allowance. And second, I am in love with the professional finish it creates.
  • Sizing Up. Since this jegging fabric only has ~30% stretch and the pattern recommends 50%, I began with some math and this “Perfect Sizing” Worksheet to see just how much I needed to size up. I roughed it out to about 1 size up from my previous versions.
  • Version 1: the “muslin.” I did a basic version to begin with–no fancy pockets or color blocking or topstitching (except around the waistband)–to verify the fit. Grading from XL at the waist to S at the knee to M at the ankle. They turned out wearable with some minor adjustments to note for the next version.
  • Version 2: with all the bells and whistles. Graded from XL at the waist to S at the knee to L at the ankle.

Notes for Next Time

  • Size up around the knee/ankle. It still feels snug around the lower legs and I think that contributes to tugging them down while wearing.
  • Size down around the waist. The waist feels comfortable but maybe just a tad on the loose side. So sizing the waist down in conjunction with sizing the knee/ankle up I’m hoping will help them stay in place better.
  • So try L at the waist, M at the knee, and XL at the ankle.

Project Settings

Presser Foot
Stitch#
Width
Length
Needle
Top Thread Tension
Application
standard zig-zag (A)
5
1.0
3
blue tip
4
seams/hem
overedge (C)
6
5.5
3.5
blue tip
4
edge finish
standard zig-zag (A)
1
3.5
3.5
twin stretch
4
topstitch

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Posted in Free Patterns, Project Recaps, Project Reviews, Sewing, The Things I've Made • September 4, 2020 | No Comments»

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