Gaia Knit Tank Top

I love a unique twist on a garment, like the crossover keyhole back on the Gaia Knit Tank Top by Sinclair Patterns. I’ve had this pattern laying around for a while and I finally got around to making two versions of it.

About the Pattern

As usual, Sinclair instructions are not my favorite, but this is a fairly easy top to construct, and the instructions do include a variety of techniques to try for binding. The binding is the most time-consuming part, but it comes together very clean. I used the first technique she describes with no issues. However, I do tend to keep the seam allowance narrower than called for when I sew the first seams for the binding. This leaves a little extra fabric to work with when folding over the binding to make sure you can cover all the raw edges and the stitches from that first seam.

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1. The Muslin

About the Fabric

Main fabric: Some sort of gray slub knit that came in a Boho Fabrics clearance box. It’s lightweight with excellent drape and stretch and a smooth texture. It’s really comfortable, although it shows water spots really well, so you probably don’t want to be sweating much against this fabric.

Binding: Leftover black cotton lycra from I-can’t-remember-where-at-this-point. Cotton lycra works really well for the binding on this top.

About This Make

• Size S(4) Tall
• Scoop neck
• Curved hem with slit

What I Learned

I did not like how the straps were anchored to a scant 1/4″ seam allowance along the shoulder seams. It was way too finicky to work with and my seams in that area look pretty atrocious.

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2. The Final

About the Fabric

• Lilium Expectations Cotton/Spandex Knit by ‘Art Gallery Fabrics’ from Cali Fabrics
• FABRIC CONTENT: 95% Cotton/5% Spandex
• PATTERN/COLOR: Lilium Expectations
• WEIGHT: Midweight
• STRETCH: 4-way

I was blinded to the fact this is cotton lycra by the quirky print and fun colors of this fabric. I am not a fan of cotton lycra except in very specific applications (leggings and binding as mentioned above.) There’s little else I love it for. In my opinion, it’s best suited for fitted garments or projects that need more structure. It just does not have the fluidity to work well in looser silhouettes. Bottom line, I’m just always disappointed by how it behaves and lays on the body when I use it as a main fabric for anything.

But that print was just so appealing to me, so I snagged a yard and wondered for a while just what to make with it before deciding to try it with the Gaia.

For the binding, I used leftover polyester ponte from a pair of Cozy Pants. It also worked wonderfully, but it doesn’t press as well as cotton lycra.

About This Make

• Size S(4) Tall
• Scooped neck
• Curved hem / no slit

What I Did Differently

• Increased the seam allowance along the shoulder seams to 1/2″ to create some extra space for anchoring the straps. I trimmed 1/2″ off the straps before attaching, and attached ONLY to the shoulder seam allowance first, then topstitched through everything. Turned out much neater this time, but I still hate what the straps are doing. They pull at the shoulder seams and keep them from laying flat, creating wrinkles and bunches around the shoulders. Maybe the straps are too short, but I’m not totally convinced of that since I didn’t shorten them at all on my muslin and they’re doing the same thing on that version.
• Matched the thread on the first binding seams to the SHIRT, not the binding. That way, when finishing the binding, any areas where the thread might wind up exposed will blend.
• Pressed a memory hem before sewing the side seams. Highly recommended! That, paired with a twin needle, gave me a pretty flawless bottom hem.

Notes for Next Time

• Stick with more fluid fabrics.
• Try anchoring the straps along the keyhole binding.
• Possibly size up around the bust? Maybe that will resolve the shoulder issues. I also noticed the binding around the armscye likes to turn inward, so maybe sizing up can help with that, too.
• May need to look into a swayback adjustment if I omit the back seam slit again. Honestly, I should probably learn that adjustment regardless. I think the shape of my body calls for it more often than not.

Project Settings – Muslin

Project Setting – Cotton Lycra