It was time for an upgrade. While my first batch of Kiki Briefs served me well, 3+ years has shown me what needed to be improved, and that was fabric choice and fit.
Fabric Choice
Batch 1 was made entirely of cotton lycra, which turns out to be less than ideal for underwear. Why? Because while cotton is breathable and absorbs moisture, it holds on to that moisture—a reality I can vehemently confirm.
What I needed was a true moisture-wicking fabric.
Enter Tencel Lyocell
TENCEL™ Lyocell Organic Cotton Spandex Jersey from Riverside Fabrics
- Composition: 66% TENCEL™ Lyocell, 28% Organic Cotton, 6% Spandex
- Weight: 200 gsm / 5.9 oz.sq yd
- Width: 59″ / 152cm
- Opacity: Opaque
- Drape: Soft, fluid drape
- Stretch: 4-way stretch, 75% cross-grain / 65% along grain-line
- Certification: Oeko-Tex® Standard 100, Made from organic cotton yarn, TENCEL™ Lyocell. This is a Lenzing certified product.
- UPF50+
What makes it so fantastic for underwear:
TENCEL (lyocell) absorbs ~50% more moisture than cotton.
Moisture Wicking: Wicks moisture away from skin efficiently and dries faster than cotton.
Highly breathable; regulates temperature well.
Smooth; naturally resists bacterial growth (less odor and irritation).
UPF 50 is a rating that indicates a fabric blocks 98% of the sun’s UVA and UVB rays, allowing only 2% (1/50th) of ultraviolet radiation to penetrate and reach the skin.
I got 6 different colors:
- 1 yard Allspice (used this to toile my Stellar+SIU romper)
- 1 yard Grey (used this for a Stellar+SIU romper, but had enough leftover to make 1 pair of briefs)
- 1 yard Rose Brown
- 1 yard Natural/Cream
- 1/2 yard Pine
- 1/2 yard Heathered Lake (used this for a Stellar+SIU romper)
It is an unbelievably comfortable fabric. As soon as you put it on, it’s like it’s not even there. My one critique about it is regarding sewing it: cut edges roll, and I hate rolling edges. But the end result is worth the headache.
About This Make
I traced from the original pattern and made the following adjustments:
- view C
- floating gusset
- size 10
- high rise
- drop waist by 0.5” (front and back)
- self-drafted waistband pattern at 4” high x 28.5” wide
- self-drafted legbands at 95% leg opening (pattern at 1.25” high x 19.5” long)
- widened crotch seam by 0.5” on each side
- scooped front leg openings inward at notches by 0.25”
And how do they wear?
Wonderful. I forget I’m even wearing them. I take them off at the end of the day and they’re dry, I’m dry, no readjusting, no riding up, no falling down, so soft it’s like you’re not wearing anything at all.
Notes for Next Time
None at this time! I need to obtain more of this fabric, and try to find a nice skin-tone beige for wearing under lighter fabrics.
Project Settings
Sewing Machine vs. Serger
| Sewing Machine | Serger |
|---|---|
|
|
Sewing Machine Settings
| Presser Foot | Stitch# | Stitch Width | Stitch Length | Needle | Top Thread Tension | Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| standard zig-zag (A) | 5 | 1.0 | 4 | blue tip | 4 | seams |
| standard zig-zag (A) | 6 | 4 | 3.5 | blue tip | 4 | topstitch |
Serger Settings
| Stitch Name | 4-thread overlock |
|---|---|
| Needles | R, L |
| Finger | B |
| Threads | 4 |
| Tension Left Needle | 4 |
| Tension Right Needle | 4 |
| Tension Upper Looper | 4 |
| Tension Lower Looper | 4 |
| Cut Width | 6 |
| Stitch Length | 2.5 |
| Differential | 1.0 |
| Application | seams |
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