The Perfect Base Layer Romper: Stellar + Switch It Up Mash-Up

It’s been a hot minute, hasn’t it. I seem to have fallen off the sewing wagon this year. But…necessity hath spawned a sudden flurry of activity, and now we have this.

Actually, three of them.

“Why?” you’re probably not even asking.

Well, like any good post author who is obliged to share the infuriating backstory no one cares about, I’ll tell you.

Motorcycle trip. 1,800+ miles over 10 days through Colorado and Utah.

The Obligatory Backstory No One Cares About

It started with fabric. I ordered 5 yards of more-expensive-than-I-usually-get fabric from a shop I never used before. The goal: improved Kiki Briefs. The reason: my current collection has been gradually driving me more and more crazy due to fit and moisture retention. Yeah. Crotch sweat. No one asked for this.

As I procrastinated on reworking my pattern for this new fabric and the improved fit I wanted, the motorcycle trip crept closer. And I had a lightbulb moment spurred by the following facts:

• Women’s motorcycle gear NEVER fits the way you want. Most of the time, if you can get it on, it’s tolerable at best and that’s only if you’re standing up straight and frozen like a mannequin. I’m not sure who needs to know this, but on a motorcycle, you’re not standing up straight. /eyeroll
• If you want protection, it’s going to be heavy. It’s going to be hot. It’s going to be restrictive.
• I want the freedom to hike to places in Utah’s national parks without having to hike in motorcycle gear.
• But I need to wear the gear.

The answer to all this: layers.

Specifically, a single base layer that will be comfortable, moisture-wicking, practical (hello, patch pockets), aesthetically pleasing, and one piece that will work for both hiking and wearing under motorcycle gear. That would give me the freedom to park the motorcycle, peel off the armored pants and jacket, swap the moto boots for some lightweight sneakers, and explore.

Proof of Concept

I’ve made two Stellar Rompers already, and my last version is such a wonderful thing to slip on in the heat of summer. Literally one thing: built in bra, shorts, pockets. So I wore this to try on all the available pants at Performance Cycle of Colorado. Two birds, one stone: try to find motorcycle pants that I don’t loathe, and see how this romper idea works with putting on and taking off pants.

1. The romper idea was golden. So easy to layer gear over, and the gear doesn’t cannibalize my underwear when I take it off. No one needs that in the middle of a parking lot at a national park.
2. Lovable moto pants for women? They literally do not exist. The closest I’ve found are my Trilobite leather leggings. Not perfect, but they get pretty close, especially pairing them with this base layer romper. They got infinitely more comfortable because the base layer protected my skin from the seams and velcro bells-and-whistles inside the pants that hold the hip armor, and this one-piece base layer stays in place. No more sliding-down, want-to-murder-someone-with-a-spoon, shifting underwear. This base layer also made the Stella Air pants I ended up buying wearable as well. It lets me unfasten the ridiculous zero-stretch waistband so I can walk and bend like a human when I’m not riding.

And so the project took flight.

About the Fabric

Main: TENCEL™ Lyocell Organic Cotton Spandex Jersey from Riverside Fabrics

$16/yard is twice what I normally look to spend on fabric, but it is completely worth it.

• Composition: 66% TENCEL™ Lyocell, 28% Organic Cotton, 6% Spandex
• Weight: 200 gsm / 5.9 oz.sq yd
• Width: 59″ / 152cm
• Opacity: Opaque
• Drape: Soft, fluid drape
• Stretch: 4-way stretch, 75% cross-grain / 65% along grain-line
• Certification: Oeko-Tex® Standard 100, Made from organic cotton yarn, TENCEL™ Lyocell. This is a Lenzing certified product.
• UPF50+

Everything about this fabric is perfect.

TENCEL (lyocell) absorbs ~50% more moisture than cotton.
Moisture Wicking: Wicks moisture away from skin efficiently and dries faster than cotton.
Highly breathable; regulates temperature well.
Smooth; naturally resists bacterial growth. (less odor, irritation).
UPF 50 is a rating that indicates a fabric blocks 98% of the sun’s UVA and UVB rays, allowing only 2% (1/50th) of ultraviolet radiation to penetrate and reach the skin.

I bought several colors for my improved Kiki Briefs and ended up using the following to make 3 rompers:

• 1 yard Allspice
• 1/2 yard Heathered Lake (pictured; had to shorten the shorts to make it fit)
• 1 yard Charcoal Grey

Accents: 

• Leftover Ice Gray Plaid, Athletic Knit from Boho Fabrics. (The fabric deets were missing. Used this previously on a pair of leggings.)
• Grey and Charcoal Geometric Nylon Spandex Swim/Athletic from Made of Love Fabrics
  • Fabric Type: Nylon Spandex Swim/Athletic
  • Fiber Content: 94% Nylon, 6% Spandex
  • Weight and Thickness: 160 GSM, 0.34mm
  • Stretch: 75% horizontal, 100% vertical

About This Make

Top: Switch It Up Bra by George and Ginger

• Front: basic
• Back: View R
• B cup (to allow room for bra pad inserts)
• size 8
• band: size 8, cut main and lining at 2.5″ high for a final band height of 2″

Bottom: Stellar Romper by George and Ginger

• size 8
• used modified bottoms from my last version
  • lengthened torso by 1″ (modified shorts front, shorts back)
  • lengthened legs by 1″ (modified shorts front, shorts back, gusset, pockets, pocket backing)
  • widened legs by a total of 2″ (modified shorts front, shorts back)

What I Did Differently

• Instead of binding the back and anchoring the straps to the binding, I went the contortion route.
  1. Attached back to front at side seams (main)
  2. Attached back to front at side seams (Lining)
  3. Place main and lining RST. Sandwich angled strap ends between main and lining at back marks as shown and anchor (pin, clip, or baste)
     
  4. Making sure straps criss-cross but are NOT TWISTED, feed them up through the front strap channel and anchor (pin, clip, or baste)
  5. Sew main to lining along top edge (back, armscye, front strap, neckline)
  6. Turn RSO and press.
• Had to shorten the heather lake version by 1″ at the legs to fit into a half yard of fabric.
• Self-drafted the waistband.

Notes for Next Time

• I might try the binding version to see if it mitigates the stretched-out look at the back.
• I can…switch it up ;)…and use any of the other back designs in the pattern for a new look. Or front designs for that matter.
• Honestly, there’s really nothing I feel like needs changing. These were unbelievably comfortable and so convenient to go from geared-up on the bike to cool and flexible in the Utah desert heat. And moisture-wicking? No lie. It’s a wonderful thing to have dry underwear at the end of a sweaty day of hiking and biking.

Verdict: Perfection

And here be some of the glorious hiking I got to do in Dead Horse State Park near Canyonlands, Arches, some sand caves outside of Zion, and Goblin Valley State Park.

Project Settings

Sewing Machine vs. Serger

Sewing Machine Settings

Serger Settings